Berlin is a hotbed for amazing fashion design - and amongst all the talent is F.rau Berlin. Designer Martina Rau combines classic tailoring with modern cuts. The drape back silk dress from the Spring Summer '09 collection (pictured above) is heavenly!
Visit: F.rau Berlin
Jewelry designer Jaclyn Mayer has joined forces with artist Orly Genger to create an amazing series of necklaces made from fabric and nylon rope.
Over the past couple of years, Complex Geometries has gathered up a cult following of men and women from all corners of the globe. The label is now known and coveted for their jersey pieces, often designed to be worn in a multitude of ways. It is no surprise that the Fall/Winter '09 collection is as exquisite (and versatile) as ever. And I'm excited to see the addition of new fabrics!
Visit: Complex Geometries
Last week, we wrote about Australian footwear brand Andrea and Joen. The Surface to Air Buckle Sandals in the last post reminded me of Tristan Blair; yet another spectacular footwear designer from Australia! It must be something about all that sunshine...
Visit: Tristan Blair
Surface to Air is a multidimensional company that works in fashion, art, communication, film and publishing. They are involved in so many amazing things - but are likely best known for their clothing label. The Spring/Summer collection - now available online - is a modern take on the classics of the past.
And finally....shoes dreams are made of.
Surface to Air New York promises that an online store is coming soon. In the meantime, visit: Surface to Air Paris
Keller is a "no fuss" clothing label based in Brooklyn. Each season, designer Kelly Clark offers a small selection of footwear that perfectly compliments her collection. The easy to wear oxfords (with wonderful cut-out detail) and lace up boots (with a vintage paper-boy look) are the type of shoes you want to wear every day. Perfect with jeans but also great for adding a bit of a masculine edge to feminine dresses.
Visit: Keller
Looking at Alexi Freeman's work, you would never guess that this accomplished Australian based designer has no formal fashion training. His work is minimal and elegant - made for a woman who is effortlessly confident. The delightful Freeman took some time to answer our questions.
Paper-Doll: How did you get into fashion design?
Alexi Freeman: For as long as I can remember I have always drawn people, but one day I realized I was more excited about drawing the garments then the people themselves, so I decided to start turning my illustrations into fashion garments.
What is the first thing you designed (personally or professionally)?
When I was about 15 I hand sewed a patchwork suit comprising literally thousands of pieces of leather, cotton jersey, silk satin, corduroy...Basically any scrap I could find I tore up and turned trash into treasure. Was months of work but there wasn’t much to do growing up in Tasmania...In 2001 my first fashion product was a take on a 1920’s flying helmet, but made with combed cotton, silk satin piping and hand cast silver zipper tags. I think I only sold one of them but it allowed me to fund my next project and so it goes...
What inspires you / your work?
Anything. Everything. Nothing. Usually I just sit down and draw and see what comes out. Inspiration is a very intuitive process for me and it’s elusive as the wind.
Describe your AW09 Collection.
My AW09 ALEXI FREEMAN CRISS CROSS Collection was derived from the notion of cross hatching; the shading technique used to develop the hand drawn design illustrations for this collection.
The Criss Cross print artwork integral to this collection was drawn by hand and worked up as a yardage print, in so doing, bringing the hand made genesis of the work into a reproducible medium. I designed this yardage print in such way that no two meters of cloth will be identical whilst maintaining the language of a commercially producible collection. This approach realises my intention of bringing my hand from initial sketch, through the sampling process, to the finished product.
I utilised high grade fabrics such as merino wool jersey and superfine merino wool suiting, silk satins and silk jersey, as both silk and merino wool are warm in winter, cool in summer, and can be worn directly on the skin by most people.
I combined the sophisticated with the sporty and was not constrained by seasonal trends or the limitations of street-wear, evening wear, nor Haute Couture, but referenced from all these genres in a bid to offer something wearable, comfortable and relevant to the needs of modern women.
Paper-Doll: How did you get into fashion design?
Alexi Freeman: For as long as I can remember I have always drawn people, but one day I realized I was more excited about drawing the garments then the people themselves, so I decided to start turning my illustrations into fashion garments.
What is the first thing you designed (personally or professionally)?
When I was about 15 I hand sewed a patchwork suit comprising literally thousands of pieces of leather, cotton jersey, silk satin, corduroy...Basically any scrap I could find I tore up and turned trash into treasure. Was months of work but there wasn’t much to do growing up in Tasmania...In 2001 my first fashion product was a take on a 1920’s flying helmet, but made with combed cotton, silk satin piping and hand cast silver zipper tags. I think I only sold one of them but it allowed me to fund my next project and so it goes...
What inspires you / your work?
Anything. Everything. Nothing. Usually I just sit down and draw and see what comes out. Inspiration is a very intuitive process for me and it’s elusive as the wind.
Describe your AW09 Collection.
My AW09 ALEXI FREEMAN CRISS CROSS Collection was derived from the notion of cross hatching; the shading technique used to develop the hand drawn design illustrations for this collection.
The Criss Cross print artwork integral to this collection was drawn by hand and worked up as a yardage print, in so doing, bringing the hand made genesis of the work into a reproducible medium. I designed this yardage print in such way that no two meters of cloth will be identical whilst maintaining the language of a commercially producible collection. This approach realises my intention of bringing my hand from initial sketch, through the sampling process, to the finished product.
I utilised high grade fabrics such as merino wool jersey and superfine merino wool suiting, silk satins and silk jersey, as both silk and merino wool are warm in winter, cool in summer, and can be worn directly on the skin by most people.
I combined the sophisticated with the sporty and was not constrained by seasonal trends or the limitations of street-wear, evening wear, nor Haute Couture, but referenced from all these genres in a bid to offer something wearable, comfortable and relevant to the needs of modern women.
What is your favourite piece from your AW09 Collection?
The Oiled Cotton Trench references coats worn by those in rural communities around outback Australia. I offered this garment in black, with a custom dyed neon yellow satin lining, finished with subtle metallic Criss Cross hand printing and a deep box pleat at the back for ease of movement. Best of all rain runs of it like water off a ducks back!
What is the most difficult thing about your job?
Knowing when to finish one collection and when to start the next...
If you could collaborate with any designer / artist / musician / etc. on a single project, who would it be and what would you do?
Australian based label MATERIALBYPRODUCT and as for what we will do – come to Craft Victoria during the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Cultural Program in March this year and find out!!!
What fashion era do you love? Is there one that you do not like?
Art Deco. I didn’t care much for flower power, but I’m sure someone will invigorate it one of these days and I will have to eat my words.
Do you have a real or imaginary muse?
Yes. She’s a trend setting fashionistocrat!
What fashion trend would you not be caught dead in?
No sure that it’s ever been a trend as such but my Mum loaned me a turtle neck sweater once when I was cold, and as luck would have it I ended up getting interviewed on TV that same day. I saw myself on the box that night and for some reason I looked like a middle aged drag queen – ordinarily not such a bad thing except I was about 25 at the time and it wasn’t quite the look I was going for!
The Oiled Cotton Trench references coats worn by those in rural communities around outback Australia. I offered this garment in black, with a custom dyed neon yellow satin lining, finished with subtle metallic Criss Cross hand printing and a deep box pleat at the back for ease of movement. Best of all rain runs of it like water off a ducks back!
What is the most difficult thing about your job?
Knowing when to finish one collection and when to start the next...
If you could collaborate with any designer / artist / musician / etc. on a single project, who would it be and what would you do?
Australian based label MATERIALBYPRODUCT and as for what we will do – come to Craft Victoria during the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Cultural Program in March this year and find out!!!
What fashion era do you love? Is there one that you do not like?
Art Deco. I didn’t care much for flower power, but I’m sure someone will invigorate it one of these days and I will have to eat my words.
Do you have a real or imaginary muse?
Yes. She’s a trend setting fashionistocrat!
What fashion trend would you not be caught dead in?
No sure that it’s ever been a trend as such but my Mum loaned me a turtle neck sweater once when I was cold, and as luck would have it I ended up getting interviewed on TV that same day. I saw myself on the box that night and for some reason I looked like a middle aged drag queen – ordinarily not such a bad thing except I was about 25 at the time and it wasn’t quite the look I was going for!
What is your favourite item in your personal wardrobe?
ALEXI FREEMAN AW09 neon yellow with metallic silver print spray on flapper leggings. I jogged in them recently and I swear they glowed in the dark!
Where do you shop for clothes when you're not wearing your own?
Designer friends studios. Well there’s got to be some perks!
What is on your current fashion wishlist?
Patent silver hightops.
What is your favourite thing about the city you live in? (Melbourne)
I scarcely have to ride my bike more then 5 minutes in any given direction. Everything I need is right at my fingertips!
What is next for your label?
Collaborations with architects Room11on a Pop Up Shop, a uniform commission from Tourism Victoria and ALEXI FREEMAN BOUTIQUE NUMERO UNO on the dark side of the moon...Stay tuned at alexifreeman.com.
ALEXI FREEMAN AW09 neon yellow with metallic silver print spray on flapper leggings. I jogged in them recently and I swear they glowed in the dark!
Where do you shop for clothes when you're not wearing your own?
Designer friends studios. Well there’s got to be some perks!
What is on your current fashion wishlist?
Patent silver hightops.
What is your favourite thing about the city you live in? (Melbourne)
I scarcely have to ride my bike more then 5 minutes in any given direction. Everything I need is right at my fingertips!
What is next for your label?
Collaborations with architects Room11on a Pop Up Shop, a uniform commission from Tourism Victoria and ALEXI FREEMAN BOUTIQUE NUMERO UNO on the dark side of the moon...Stay tuned at alexifreeman.com.
