Designer Interview: JUMA
Posted on Jun 04 2010

Most of us can’t imagine working creatively with one of our siblings, day in and day out. Brother and sister duo Jamil and Alia Juma do it, and do it well. Focused on creating high quality, innovative contemporary ready to wear clothing under the name
JUMA, Alia and Jamil have been able to tap into a collective consciousness of young urban creatives and produce a perfectly suited collection season to season.
JUMA is known for their classic, wearable, but slightly edgy shapes. Those drop crotch / harem / kurta pants that seem to be the go-to item of the season?
JUMA first debuted that silhouette way back in 2005!
Alia, the designer director for
JUMA, was kind enough to answer our questions.
Paper-Doll: How did you get into fashion design?
Alia Juma; I’ve always known from a very young age that I would be working in fashion. It’s always been a passion of mine. While I was in school I was always experimenting with different ideas in fashion, designing corsets and working with leather, as well as designing custom gowns for drag queens. After graduating from college I put together a mini street goth inspired collection. At that point my brother joined me in helping with sales where he became interested in design as well. The next season we decided to work together in co-designing JUMA.
What is the first thing you designed (personally or professionally)?
I’ve been drawing designs from a very young age but the first piece of clothing that I actually took from sketch to construction was a halter dress with a neon green and black psycadelic print. It was hideous.
When did you launch JUMA?
We launched JUMA in 2003
What inspires you / your work?
Every season is an evolution of the previous. We’re constantly inspired by our friends who are interesting in their own ways. A lot of our friends work in the creative industry as stylists, artists, graphic designers, writers and musicians. When you surround yourself with such talented people you tend to feed of their energy. We also like to design clothes that we want to wear ourselves. Personally I’m not into clothing that’s super trendy, I like to dress in items that are fashion forward yet understated. I like to feel comfortable yet know that I look good in what I’m wearing. I don’t want to feel fussy or like the outfit is wearing me.

Describe your SS’10 Collection.
In all our collections we like to use fabrics that have a soft hand feel. We used a lot of heather gray, white, taupe, beige and black cotton jersey and nylon. We combined understated colors and layered them with our own interesting prints.
What is your favourite piece from your SS’10 Collection?
I love the “kurta” jumpsuit (pictured above) in black and heather grey. Sometimes I’ll wear it casually with sneakers or I’ll dress it up with a blazer, heels and a chunky gold bracelet.
Did you have a personal soundtrack or a favourite album that you listened to while working on SS’10?
GOSSIP! I love them. I’ve been listening to them non-stop from spring 10 until now.
What area of your work do you enjoy the most?
I enjoy the sketching process and fabric selection. I love to sit in a quiet space and just get all my ideas out onto paper, and choosing fabrics is what brings everything together. Your sketches become more real and you begin to realize what the collection will look like once everything is complete.
What is the most difficult aspect of your job?
Production is pretty tedious. You have to oversee every aspect from pattern corrections to grading to the cutting and sewing in order to ensure top quality garments.

What is the most surprising thing that has happened to you as a designer?
So far I haven’t been surprised by much. When you go into any kind of business you know that there are going to be a lot of unexpected twists and turns with the business. You will undergo a lot of unexpected changes that you have to be ready for and adapt to.
If you could collaborate with any designer / artist / musician / etc. on a single project, who would it be and what would you do?
I would want to collaborate with a shoe designer and come up with an avant garde shoe that is comfortable to wear without being overly fussy.
If you could design a wardrobe for any one person (past/present/real/fictional), who would it be?
I’m in love with Tilda Swinton.
How would you describe your own personal style?
I like to try new things. I don’t dress in one specific way, sometimes I look very androgynous and sometimes I like to put on a dress and a pair of heels.

What is your favourite item in your personal wardrobe?
I love my black tuxedo blazer which I can wear over many different outfits.
Where do you shop for clothes when you're not wearing your own?
Vintage!
What is on your current fashion wishlist?
Lots and lots of pairs of boots. I love boots.
What fashion trend would you not be caught dead in?
I feel like I can rock any look.

What is the one item that every woman should have in her closet?
The perfect tailored blazer which can look good over almost any outfit
What is your favourite thing about the city you live in?
I’m currently living in Brooklyn New York and I love looking at all the people. I find that the people here aren’t afraid to play with different looks and try new things in fashion. There are so many small boutiques and great vintage stores to choose from.
If you couldn’t be a fashion designer, what other area of interest would you like to explore?
I would want to work in alternative health care as a naturopathic doctor.
What is next for JUMA?
We want to constantly create unique collections while enjoying every step of the process. We are also going to be introducing new product lines which will be designed in the spirit of JUMA. These include outerwear and scarves which will be introduced on our website -
JUMA.ca